I’m cutting the last of the ham off
the bone, laying aside slices that I’ll wrap up and freeze for sandwiches or
scalloped potatoes, but I know what I’m going to do with the bone. I‘ve left some of the fat and gristle on it
and a few bits of meat in hard-to-get-to places where the bone curves it. It is
going for Navy beans. There are some
things you can’t let go of despite flow of time and fashion and, for me, one is
my mother’s admonition never to waste anything.
Growing up, Fridays were tuna
casserole or oyster stew, Sunday (if we were lucky) could be fried chicken with
mashed potatoes and Tuesday might be meatloaf, but somewhere in the week there
was sure to be Navy beans. When I’m done
cleaning up the cutting board, I’ll get out a large pot and dump the beans in
to soak them overnight. I could take the
easy way out and use canned beans but it makes a lot more this way and I like
to have the leftovers. I’ll add plenty of salt and pepper and a bay leaf, as my
mother did. One thing I won’t do like my
mother is to add onions. As an adult, I
use onions regularly in all kinds of cooking, but as a child, they were one of
the few things that completely destroyed the taste of a meal for me.
Of course, I ate them anyway. One of the rules of our family was that you
never left anything on your plate. If
you didn’t want seconds, fine - with seven children around the table there was
always someone willing to eat what you didn’t like - but you didn’t waste. We’d say our prayer before meals and Mom
would dish us all out a big bowl of Navy
beans, usually with cornbread. The syrup
that we poured on the cornbread was made with something called Maplene that I
think disappeared with the sixties. She’d heat up sugar on the stove with some
water in it and then pour in the Maplene until it thickened enough to become a
thin syrup.
After dinner, whoever’s turn it was
to do the dishes would always clear up the table. Two of us each night, one to
wash and one to dry. I always preferred
washing. If Mom were helping with
cleaning up in the kitchen, we’d sing together as we washed. Whether she was
cooking or cleaning, my mother always sang as she worked. She sang in the car
with all us packed in the back of a Rambler station wagon before all of the
seatbelt laws. Before seatbelts.
A little over a year ago when my
mother could no longer walk or dress herself without help and was living in a
group home, my brother Ed flew out from
Idaho, my sister Judi from Tennessee, and me from New Jersey to celebrate her
ninetieth birthday with her. One afternoon, we took her to Red Lobster - my
mother’s idea of a five star restaurant - and she ordered a huge meal. As she finished the last bite, my brother Ed
laughed and said, “And she’s going to eat every last one of those depression
era beans.”
I’m humming to myself as I fill the
sink with water and wash off the cutting board and knives. My mother died two days after
Christmas. Despite her best efforts, my
faith has gone the way of fish on Friday, scapulas and stations of the
cross. But I don’t need a heaven to
justify her life. I have the memories of
childhood. I have the feeling of the
song that rises from the warm dishwater.
I have the Navy beans. That is enough.
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